Bogart's Smokehouse

I had a chance to visit the newly-opened Bogart's Smokehouse at the corner of 9th & Lafayette Saturday. It was Day 2 for the BBQ joint and things were running smoothly.

Day 1 sounded plenty exciting with 200+ orders and an impromptu visit from Food & Wine magazine, in town to visit the area's James Beard Award finalists.

It's hard not to think of Bogart's as 'Pappy's East', especially given the familiar faces gracing the joint, including Mike Emerson pressing the flesh. But executive chef Skip Steele has made the menu and the flavors here his own.

Because of the Pappy's link, I went with a brisket sandwich and was not disappointed. It showed that same tenderness, juiciness, and flavor that I've come to love at Pappy's. When I reached for the sauces, here's where I first noticed a difference.

In addition to the hot (Volcano) and sweet, Bogart's offers a vinegar based sauce (a la North Carolina) and a pineapple-based sauce I initially shied away from (not a big fruit-based fan) but later came to appreciate.

Your choice of sides vary as well and include pork rinds & deviled egg potato salad. I had the applesauce (excellent! chunky w/cinnamon) and the Billy Goat chips.

Skip's taken an excursion into 'exotic' (for St. Louis BBQ at least) meats, adding pastrami and prime rib to the menu. Don't look for chicken here though (I thought one of the least successful offering on the Pappy's menu). I look forward to trying the 'sausage fatty' in the near future as well.

After congratulating Skip on the new venture, he was gracious enough to give me a tour of the operation, from the smoker (old Joe) & walk-in out back to the slicer. I got samples of the pastrami (delicious) and the ribs (even more so). He insisted I try the pineapple sauce which was surprisingly low-key on the fruit. The rib glaze was based on the same principle, fruit adding flavor instead of being the flavor.

I even got to see the 'secret weapon' for the ribs: a roofer's torch that gives them that final crisp. I'll be back.

Bogart's is closed Sunday & Monday and stays open until the meat runs out (around 4:30). Street parking is easy to find during the week, but you'll have to compete with Soulard Market shoppers on Saturday (I'd park off Lafayette just over the I-55 bridge and walk the block). For Mardi Gras, they'll be selling on the sidewalk only. Prices - reasonable; Food - excellent.

Rib Shack

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Went with Andy & Mike for lunch today - my first visit. There was still a good crowd even at 1:00 and it was soon apparent why.

I had the rib tips (of course). The meat was not the tenderest I've ever had, but not so tough as to disqualify it from further consideration. The sauce was tasty but not too spicy and the meat had a nice smokiness to it. I'd definitely say top 25%.

The sides were some of the best I've had in St. Louis. The collards are officially the best and the mac -n- cheese were the perfect texture - not lumpy, not runny.

The other guys seemed to enjoy their meals as well (tips & pulled pork) and gave a thumbs up to the steak fries.

My only complaint is the price. $10.99 for a rib tip plate w/2 sides (no drink) but I'll probably save my pennies and go back.

Bogart's Opens Tomorrow

The Pappy's spin-off that was supposed to open in November is set to go live tomorrow. The joint is in the old Fat Toney's location across from the Soulard Market park. Watch this site for reviews.

Thanks Don for the head's-up.